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How to choose your floor?

Floorboards

As a natural material, floorboards have a number of positive properties: fully ecological, warm to the touch, good thermal insulating properties, adds a natural cosiness to the interior, can be finished in a wide range of shades, anti-static. Of course, given their natural origin, they also have some not-so-good qualities: the wear resistance of the floor surface is limited – it can only be protected with varnish or oil; the board changes its dimensions (swells or shrinks) depending on the humidity level in the room.

From the above characteristics, it can be concluded that the best use of floorboards is in living areas (bedrooms, living rooms, children’s rooms). The boards satisfy the basic human requirement for a natural living environment and their protective layer – varnish or oil – is sufficiently resistant to stress in domestic conditions. Of course, floorboards can also be used in more busy areas such as kitchens, corridors and public areas such as offices, etc., but more frequent maintenance and renewal of the protective coating is necessary in case of more intensive use. In addition, planks vary in hardness depending on the wood species. Pine and spruce boards are only suitable for use in domestic areas due to their low hardness, while harder woods such as oak, ash, etc. can also be used in public areas. Hardness has nothing to do with abrasion resistance, the former being the ability of wood to withstand the high pressure of an object (e.g. a high-heeled shoe) exerted on the floor, while the latter is merely a frictional load. It is therefore imperative to consider the conditions of the room in which it will be used when choosing boards.

Floor boards are installed on floor joists or directly on the “black” floor. The ‘black’ floor can be either plywood, OSB or concrete.For concrete floors it is necessary to make sure that the concrete has the right percentage of moisture and is hard enough. When installing on floor joists, it is important to note that the boards must be thick enough to prevent them from buckling under load.

If necessary, the floorboards can be refinished by sanding over the top layer. This should be done if the floorboards have dents in the surface or if the protective layer has not been restored in time and the floorboards have become dirty.

Floorboards are not suitable for use on underfloor heating .

Classic (plank) parquet

Classic parquet has all the same characteristics as floorboards (the construction is also the same), but the dimensions are smaller, so the application is the same. Classic parquet is traditionally made in Latvia from oak and ash, sometimes also from less hard birch and other wood species.

Due to its size, parquet is only installed on the ‘black floor’; it is best glued to the subfloor. When installing classic parquet, it is possible to create a variety of colourful patterns and mix wood species. The most common type of parquet is classic parquet laid in what is known as ‘herringbone’.

Three-layer parquet (shield parquet)

Three-layer parquet is designed to be used on underfloor heating. The parquet construction ensures minimal expansion/contraction of the wood due to changes in humidity and temperature. The overall thickness, typically 14 – 15 mm, is also adequate for good thermal transmission. It is also useful as a quick-lay wooden floor, as the top layer is already coated with a protective layer during the manufacturing process, so that no sanding or varnishing is required when the parquet is laid, and the floor can be created simply by joining the parquet planks together without having to fix them to the subfloor. Safer use on concrete floors and in rooms with high humidity. The top layer of hardwood in three-layer parquet is usually 4 mm thick, which is enough to refinish the parquet two to three times using a parquet sander. Of course, for smaller defects in the parquet surface, it is sufficient to renew the varnish/oil protective coating. Three-layer parquet can be installed using two methods:- 1) the “floating” installation method; 2) gluing to the subfloor. “Floating” means that the three-layer parquet is laid on a suitable underlay by joining the boards together. When laid in this way, the parquet expands and contracts freely, as space is left along the walls of the room. “The advantages of floating decking are: it can be used on all floors, including thin carpets; it is quick and easy to install and can be done by hand; the noise from footsteps remains in the room itself and does not penetrate into the rooms below; it is much easier to remove the parquet if the need arises. In the gluing method, the parquet is glued to the floor using glue. This method also has advantages: better heat transfer when parquet is used on underfloor heating; better noise absorption; parquet stability against high pressure from heavy furniture, pianos, etc.; slower exposure to relative humidity compared to floating parquet; design-wise, glued parquet is better as it does not require thresholds between rooms; easier to sand or repair than floating parquet; best installation method in public areas as well as large rooms

Double-layer parquet

Two-layer parquet consists of two layers. This is a modification of three-layer parquet, which results in a thinner wooden floor, with a significantly lower thermal resistance coefficient and a faster warming of the house with underfloor heating. The thickness of two-layer parquet is usually 10 millimetres. Sometimes, however, two-layer parquet is also 12-14 millimetres thick, but this has no advantage over three-layer parquet. Two-layer parquet is installed only by gluing it to the subfloor.

Cork floors

There are two types of cork flooring: 1)click flooring ; 2)cork parquet.

Click cork flooring consists of three layers: the bottom layer is 1-2 mm thick pressed cork which serves as an underlay (no additional underlay is needed), the middle layer is a moisture-resistant HDF board (pressed wood fibre) with a click joint designed for joining glueless sheets, the top layer is about 3 mm thick cork covered with a varnish or other protective layer. The sheet dimensions are 300 mm wide, 900 mm long and 10-11 mm thick. Any flat, low-rigidity and dry subfloor works well as a substrate for this type of cork flooring. This type is laid as a ‘floating’ floor, leaving gaps to the walls.

Cork parquet is a square or rectangular sheet of cork, 4-6 mm thick, composed entirely of cork, which may be coated with a protective layer of varnish or vinyl. Cork parquet is to be installed only by gluing it to a subfloor, which can be concrete, OSB or plywood. Cork parquet is moisture-proof and can therefore be used in damp and even wet areas such as showers and bathrooms. Both cork parquet and Click cork flooring are ideal for bedrooms and children’s rooms, as well as other rooms that need to be cosy, as cork immediately gives off heat when walked on barefoot. It is also suitable for other living areas, but with a vinyl coating it can also be used in high-traffic public areas.

Cork is a completely natural and ecological, allergy-free floor covering. Due to its excellent thermal insulation properties, cork floors are not suitable for underfloor heating. Cork fades under direct sunlight.

Laminate

Laminate is a widely used floor covering consisting of four basic layers: 1) the bottom layer is a thin synthetic layer that acts as a stabiliser for the laminate boards and a moisture blocker for the bottom layer; 2) the middle layer is a moisture-resistant HDF board with a “click” joint for glueless joining of the sheets; 3) above the middle layer is a decorative paper that gives the laminate board its shade; 4) the top layer is transparent and provides abrasion resistance to the laminate. Laminate boards are 6 to 14 mm thick and rectangular or square in shape. They mostly imitate wooden floors, less often tiles, etc. Laminate has a high abrasion resistance, expressed in abrasion resistance classes. At present, it is only worth talking about wear classes 31, 32 and 33, which are intended for use in living rooms (class 31), corridors, kitchens and offices (class 32) and rooms with particularly heavy loads – shops and the like (class 33), respectively. In terms of wear resistance, laminate floors can be used in virtually any living or public space. In terms of appearance, laminate is also considered to be an excellent floor, as there are decors on the market today that perfectly imitate even the most traditional wooden planks, which would be difficult for a layman to distinguish from real planks. Provided that a quality laminate is chosen, installation is also quick and the floor lasts a long time if installed correctly. Moisture from washing, spillages, etc. can shorten the life of a laminate floor, but this does not affect all laminates in the same way, as each laminate manufacturer uses different densities and treatments of HDF boards. In addition, laminate has two other disadvantages related to its construction: it is noisy and has a cool finish. These two characteristics often discourage people from choosing laminate flooring for their homes. Given the above characteristics, laminate can be described as an excellent floor for shops, offices, hotel rooms, conference rooms, doctors’ surgeries, etc. It is also recommended for home use as a low-maintenance floor. However, the cheapest laminates are generally not very good. The most common of these is increased dust accumulation on the laminate surface caused by static charging of the laminate. To avoid this, make sure the laminate is anti-static and choose a natural material for the upholstery.

For use on underfloor heating. UV-resistant.

Vinyl flooring

Vinyl flooring is a material similar to linoleum which, unlike linoleum, is reinforced with a fibreglass interlayer, reinforced with a stabilising underlayer and top-coated with a special abrasion-resistant vinyl layer. Underneath, a decorative film is placed, similar to laminate, to give the sheets a visual appearance. The sheets come in a wide range of sizes and thicknesses from 2.5 to 4.5 mm.

The main characteristics of the materials are: resistance in wet environments, excellent abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, excellent noise absorption.

The best applications are shopping and sports centres, hotels, airports, shops, etc., with a lot of traffic, from a practical point of view, also in corridors and kitchens of private houses. Thanks to its practical and decorative properties, vinyl flooring has recently been installed on the ground floors of private houses.

Vinyl floors are ideal for use on underfloor heating due to their low thermal resistance. UV resistant.

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What should I consider when choosing laminate?

There is a trend nowadays for people to want to install the highest possible grade of laminate in their home, thinking that it will last longer. However, this is not always the case, so we would like to explain the criteria that should be followed when choosing a laminate floor.

Laminate wear resistance class

First, let’s recall again the use of the class:

– Class 31 laminate for use in low-traffic public areas (e.g. small office)

– Class 32 laminate is designed for use in public areas with medium traffic, such as doctor’s surgeries, shops, etc.

– Class 33 laminate intended for use in high-traffic public areas or supermarkets and other similar areas where there is constant movement of people and the floor has to bear the greatest frictional load

As you can see, we are only talking about public areas here, so any of these laminates is suitable for domestic use, as long as it really does meet at least wear resistance class 31. Sometimes manufacturers recommend, for example in a corridor or kitchen, a class 32 laminate, but this is more because a good floor in these areas has to meet other quality criteria than just friction. We would like to stress that when we talk about class, we are only talking about frictional load, which is only one of the characteristics of a good laminate floor. We can say from practice that no less important is

Moisture resistance of the laminate substrate

We have noticed that the most common reason why laminate fails is not because the top layer has worn away, but because moisture has got into the seams between the laminate boards. This is most often visually evident as worn joints in the laminate. You may say – but wear resistance is more important! Nothing! If you wash the laminate with a damp cloth every day, or if you spill something on it, moisture gets into the seams and they swell. If you walk on the floor, of course the seams will wear first, because they are higher than the overall plane of the laminate surface and therefore take the most load and wear the fastest.

Laminate “Click” joint and seam

The joints between laminate boards are a very important element in the quality of the laminate. They should be as tight as possible after laying (and smooth if the laminate is not bevelled). If the joint is not tight enough, there is room for excess moisture, which swells the edges of the laminate. When it comes to the laminate joint, the evenness of the subfloor cannot be overlooked. One thing to understand here is that the subfloor must be smooth, at least smooth enough for the underlay under the laminate to be able to level the subfloor plane. Otherwise, bumps or dents in the subfloor open up the joints of even the highest quality laminate. As for laminates that incorporate bevels for design reasons, in the long term they prevent the edges from swelling, because if moisture enters the joint and swells it, the bevel makes this swelling virtually invisible.

Laminate substrate density

The laminate substrate consists of wood dust pressed at high pressure with added binders. In English, this backing is abbreviated as HDF or High Density Fibre. This high density varies widely from one manufacturer to another (and even from one manufacturer to another) . It is an important parameter because it affects the rigidity of the “Click” joint, the resistance to heavy falling objects and, very importantly, provides protection against moisture. Without a doubt, a higher density substrate absorbs moisture much more slowly and less than a low density substrate, so the laminate also looks new for longer.

Laminate surface static charging

Laminate tends to be antistatic or, conversely, static-consuming . The abrasion resistance of laminate is provided by a synthetic surface protective layer which, when in contact with a synthetic cloth or even your cat, acquires a static charge. After this charge, the laminate starts to attract dust.

Fumes

Unfortunately, there are also laminates available in this country that are of such poor quality that they release significant amounts of chemicals when laid, and I have even seen some that smell strongly when the packaging is opened. This is no longer a common occurrence and manufacturers who offer quality floor coverings do not produce them. However, if this is important to you, ask the seller to show the relevant symbol on the laminate packaging.

Summary

If you are looking for a quality laminate that will last as long as possible, then it is worth paying attention to all the above criteria. Conversely, if you are looking for a laminate for a rental apartment or for a room that will undergo a major renovation in five years’ time, the most important criteria will be design, price and the absence of harmful fumes.

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Vinyl flooring

Vinyl flooring is for those who want flooring to last a long time and not require special care. They are suitable for almost any room from the bathroom to the airport. Vinyl flooring can be used in kitchens, corridors, rooms, doctor’s practices, retail spaces, customer service areas, or any other home or commercial space. A very practical choice in areas where pets are kept.

Features

Minimal maintenance, a flexible and abrasion- and impact-resistant surface coating that absorbs footstep noise, moisture resistance, excellent heat transfer when laid on warm floors and easy installation – these are the main advantages.

Vinyl floor construction

Vinyl flooring consists of sheets of different sizes, which are assembled either by gluing them to the subfloor or by “click” joints. The backing of the vinyl sheet consists of flexible vinyl reinforced with fibre. It has a decorative pattern on top of which a transparent wear-resistant protective layer is applied. Wicanders, as a manufacturer of cork floors, has additionally incorporated a cork interlayer into the vinyl subfloor to make the floor warmer. The use of such materials makes the vinyl floor 100% resistant to moisture and water. The protective layer makes the top layer highly abrasion resistant and by varying its thickness the manufacturers have achieved suitability for a wide range of loads, from the home to the heaviest use in public spaces.

Design

Like any modern floor, vinyl flooring is packed with all the design innovations that make it look great:

Both wood and stone surface replicas are available

The best floors incorporate “matching structure” technology, which means that the appearance of the board matches the structure of its surface. In other words, if a branch is visible on the surface, you can both feel it as a branch and see its surface against the light.

Designs are available with plain sheet joints or with bevels on the edges of the sheets. This solution makes the vinyl floor look like a real plank or tile floor.

Changing the gloss-matt gives the floor a depth effect.

Sheet sizes are rectangular, rhomboid and square, larger and smaller. Designed to fit any interior.

Retrieved from

Adhesive vinyl flooring is commonly used in public and large spaces where the flooring requires increased shear resistance. In contrast, click flooring is laid on a specially designed subfloor, with the sheets bonded together only. The main requirement for both installation methods is a level subfloor.

A very popular recent innovation is the installation of self-adhesive vinyl flooring on self-adhesive underlay. This installation method is so good because it is:

  • fastest,
  • vinyl can also be laid on less than level substrates (e.g. tiles)
  • very secure, as the seams cannot open, as for example this can happen with “Click” vinyl
  • saves buyers money. “Click vinyl costs the same as adhesive vinyl with self-adhesive backing

Accessories

The best manufacturers offer colour-matched skirting boards for every shade, as well as the necessary accessories to finish thresholds and steps. Of course, there are also vinyl floor care and refinishing products.

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Warm floors

Invisible benefits

Underfloor heating is not only a comfort option, but also an economical solution for home heating and your health. Using underfloor heating indoors will:Cleaner air and environment – there is usually no dust on underfloor heating compared to homes heated by convection radiators. This is very useful for people with allergies. It is also easier to clean rooms as there is no need to clean hard to reach places behind radiator pipes etc.

Lower energy costs – 2°C lower temperature with underfloor heating is enough to provide the same level of comfort. This is achieved because the heated floor warms the air and the temperature is evenly distributed throughout the room.

Easier interior planning – interior elements can be placed anywhere in the room, radiators do not restrict the free use of space.

What floor coverings can be used on underfloor heating?

Underfloor heating is usually laid on different types of tiles, which provide very good heat transfer. But tiles also have their drawbacks. When the floor is not heated, you have stone cold floors, the tiles are hard and they tend to crack or break when dishes fall on them. Almost all floor coverings in the Parketa Sala range are suitable for use on warm floors. Only solid wood floorboards are not recommended for underfloor heating. All types of two- and three-layer parquet, laminate, many cork floors and vinyl flooring are suitable for warm floors. For the installation of any floor covering on a warm floor, it is important that the floor system does not exceed the optimum thermal resistance coefficient of 0,15 m²K/W. This is calculated by summing the thermal resistance of the floor covering and the underlay. For example, if you want to install laminate flooring or parquet, you will need to add the thermal resistance of the underlay. If the sum does not exceed the optimum factor, such a system can be used safely. It is also very important that the surface temperature of the floor to be heated does not exceed the values set by the manufacturers. In general, the limit is around 26-27 °C, depending on the coating. Optimally, a comfortable floor surface temperature is around 23-24 °C. Carpets and floor coverings applied on top of the floor covering will accumulate heat, which may cause the surface temperature to exceed the permitted limit. In such cases, a lower surface temperature of 20-22 °C should be provided. A damp-proofing membrane under the floor should be used in any case.

How to equip a heated floor?

Perhaps the most important aspect of laying underfloor heating is surface preparation. It is important to strictly follow the underfloor heating system manufacturer’s installation instructions. Later, make sure that:

Enough time has passed and the concrete base has dried out. This usually takes at least 2 months.

Substrate flatness – up to 2 mm of unevenness, measured in any direction with a 2-m guide or spirit level, anywhere in the room, is allowed.

The surface moisture content of the concrete shall not exceed 1,8% CM.